Thursday, 11 October 2007

Ossiacher See

Spent the last week on the shores of Ossiacher See in Austria, in a village called Bodensdorf. Across the water is the Stiftskirche Ossiach, c 11th century, many fine concerts on a Schubert theme. The shop has lots of Arvo Pärt recordings, a composer who takes Bach´s tonal complexity and makes it simple enough. I have injuries from a waterski incident, bascially got overexposed to the sun, with the reflective material of the boat no help and then overnight developed intense pain in my left shoulder, cured this morning by ibuprofen, an amazing wonderdrug of modernity. The people who own the guesthouse seem strange, always answering my questions with another question, ie ´what time does the store close at?´
´what do you need?´
(a party pack of pink condoms, I think it´s my lucky night....)
what time does the library close at?
what books do you need?
(Karl Marx´s Das Kapital, the revolution begins tonight in Villach....)
I feel like saying ´mind your business you nosey twat´, but they´d probably say ´what colour and how many nosey twats?´
I think it´s all sarcasm, obviously, like saying fuck off without actually saying it. The other guests are fine, all German or Austrian. A very alive couple from Hamburg, the husband reminds one of late Spike Milligan, and a Berliner obsessed with table tennis, but really a very pleasant man. This morning the owners tried to double charge me for the room, alleging that my moaning and groaning was the consequence of fornication not the speed boat incident but it was all resolved.
Went to Klagenfurt and Mahler´s hut in Maiernigg am Wörthersee, also Robert Musil museum in Klagenfurt.
Obviously this is Haider country, he´s on lots of posters, now looking older and more avuncular.
So, lots of swimming in the lake, easier than it seems although it takes getting used to, table tennis and the water ski. Tried to climb up the mountain but everyone is eager to offer lifts etc. I did lots of hitching around Kärnten, its easy and quite simple to spot the average Austrian psycho a mile off. (touch wood, frig that´s my head...) Got into Á thousand Plateaus´and Nietzsche explained to me a little anyway. German improving but I detest the language now. Every guy in Villach is called Gianni and the whole thing looks like a rejected painting by moi. The mountains sweep down to the lake and this is unlike Switzerland. People try a lot harder in Austria than Schweiz, to please but they´re still a load of (relative) hillbillys, hence their election of Haider. Dr Jörg (I wonder what the PhD is in?) is omnipresent, would like to invade his villa and shoot his sheepdog but no one knows where it is. The only other thing is Großglockner but really I´ve seen it all and nothing creative has happened just lots of distractions.

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]

<< Home